How To Use Fusion 360

Is one of the most popular programs among the 3D printing community, especially for those interested in industrial design. It combines powerful functionalities with a beginner-friendly interface and a relatively easy learning curve. In this tutorial, we will dive deeper into the 3D printing capabilities of Fusion 360. We will learn how to model, edit, prepare and 3D print a Fusion 360 design. So let’s get started! 3D Modeling Rules for 3D Printing As with any other program, Fusion 360 users need to make sure to stick to certain design rules when it comes to 3D printing.

• How To Use Fusion 360 To Make A 3d Cougar

A 3D model might look perfect on your screen, but would not be able to exist as a geometrical object in the real world. This is a problem in particular for programs mostly used by visual artists and game developers. Luckily for us, Fusion 360 is mainly used by industrial designers to create functional parts. That’s why the transition from virtual 3D model to actual 3D print is quite easy with this software.

Try Fusion 360 for free. Get full use of Fusion 360 with a 30-day free trial by sending yourself a link to download on a Mac or PC.

Nevertheless, keep these rules in mind. Chances are you already respect them in Fusion 360 without even knowing that they exist. Wall Thickness: Printers need information about how thick you intend the wall of your object to be (or if you want to print a completely solid model).

Therefore, when turning a 3D model into a real 3D print, the wall thickness or volume information of the model is needed. You simply cannot print an object that has a ‘paper-thin’ wall without substance.

Watertight: A printable model must not have any holes in its surface. Ask yourself the question: if I were to put water inside my model, would it flow out? If that’s the case, then you need to find those holes and close them. Sometimes this process is also called ‘creating a manifold model’. Grouped Models: While it is possible to export several bodies in a single STL file (so-called grouped models), we recommend you to export one model at a time 2. 3D Printing Commands Now that your design is ready for 3D printing, select the MAKE command. Now select the body that you intend to print by clicking on it.

Once selected, you will see the body is previewed as a mesh. File Resolution of 3D Print On the right-hand side of your screen, you will see a window with additional 3D printing settings to choose from. These are mainly about the resolution of your 3D print.

A very low resolution will make the print look somewhat pixelated. A resolution that is too high will make the file very – or even too heavy – to handle. Besides the pre-defined resolution options of “low, medium or high”, you can click on “ Refinement Options” to customize the settings.

We recommend a deviation of 0.01 millimeters for 3D printing with i.materialise. This resolution will guarantee a print of the highest possible detail while ensuring that the data won’t be too big. File Type of 3D Print At the bottom of the settings window, you can decide upon the “ output” of your 3D print.

You can either export it as an STL file (the most popular 3D printing file format) or continue with Autodesk’s print studio to prepare this model for the 3D printer. If you go for the latter option, the selected body will be exported from Fusion 360 and imported to a newly opened Autodesk print studio window. For some more info about importing and exporting STL files in Fusion 360, read the next chapter. To learn more about preparing your 3D print with Autodesk Print Studio, read on from chapter 6.

Importing and Exporting STL Files Fusion 360 offers several ways to export, but also import STL files. The following video tutorial by Autodesk’s Fusion 360 evangelist Sachlene Singh gives a good overview of the different options. Preparing the 3D Print with Autodesk Print Studio Autodesk Print Studio takes you through the 3D printing process step by step. The first thing you might want to try is the repair tool, which will automatically detect problems and fix them for you.

For example, if your model is not watertight and contains holes in its surface, Print Studio’s repair tool will fix this for you. The next steps of the process are only important if you use home printers. You can optimize rotation to let the software determine how to best position the body on the print pad. Then you can automatically add supports. Keep in mind that for online services like i.materialise, you do not need to add any supports as we will add those automatically if necessary. Most of our 3D printers (especially those printing in ) do not even require support structure during their printing process. In the last two steps, you can preview your print and export the file.

How To Use Fusion 360 To Make A 3d Cougar

3D Printing Online If you want to print your design in, our online 3D printing service might be what you are looking for. With i.materialise you can simply, choose your favorite material, and get an instantly calculated price quote in seconds. After ordering we’ll also check your file for common 3D modeling issues and let you know if your design still needs some editing.

What software do I need to run the 4th Axis system? In order to use the 4th Axis, you need to have a CAM program that will support creation of the tool path for the 4th axis. Two possible solutions include: Vectric VCarve Pro (the Desktop version does not support 4th axis). VCarve Pro has a Gadget that will allow you to take a 2D design and wrap it around a cylinder to create a round object. The following video shows you how: The other option is to use Deskproto Multi-axis addition.

This software will also allow you to create a 4th axis job. An added benefit of this program is that it allows you to take a solid 3D model (stl, obj) and place inside a workpiece and then you can carve that object out. See video below showing a Homer Simpson being cut out of foam. The short answer is that both will work, however, if you are looking for high accuracy then a screw drive system will outperform every time.

Belt-Drive Systems Belt drive systems are much cheaper to produce and require less expensive components to make them work. A belt drive system is usually a one to one ratio between motor movement and gantry movement. Meaning that there is no gear reduction so as the motor moves, the gantry will move an equal amount.

Because of this, the motor on a belt drive system will usually be much larger than a same size lead screw driven system. Belts are also more susceptible to stretching and wear. This will always affect accuracy.

If the belt stretches that will immediately translate into an inaccuracy at the bit into your workpiece. Some might argue that a belt drive system will move the gantry faster, but keep in mind that moving faster into a material and having stretch on the belt will cause deflection and the belt will act more like a spring thus increasing the risk for lost steps and positioning.

Screw-Drive Systems A screw driven system usually consists of a threaded rod (screw) that is either an Acme-type lead screw or a ball screw. The motor will rotate the screw and the gantry is attached to the screw with some type of threaded nut (lead screw nut or ball nut). As the screw turns, the gantry is moved in the corresponding direction. The number of threads per inch will determine how many rotations the screw must turn for the gantry to move one inch. This gear reduction means that you can either use much smaller stepper motors to control the movement and still maintain a very high accuracy, or you can use a larger motor and move a larger mass as compared to using the same size motor in a belt driven system. You will find much better repeatability and accuracy in a screw driven system with minimal to no linear free play. Due to the costs of lead and ball screws and components, you will find that these type of drive systems will cost more than a belt drive system.

Summary If you are looking for high accuracy, a more rugged design, or if you plan to cut harder materials like hard plastics, hard woods and metals, then you will want a system that uses a screw-drive. If you are just planning to cut thin, softer materials like soft woods and plastics and accuracy is not as important to you, and if you do not have a large budget, then a belt-drive system might be right for you. Always keep in mind when looking at purchasing a CNC system what you might need in the future. You might think that your immediate need to make model parts out of thin plywood, thin plastic and balsa wood might not require a screw drive, but maybe in the future you want to cut hardwoods, thicker plastics or metals, or you get a project that requires a high cutting accuracy – in this case you might be kicking yourself for not spending the extra few hundred dollars for the better drive system. What is G-Code? G-Code is the generic name for CNC machine control language. It is the way that you can tell a computerized machine (CNC machine) to make something. G-Code consists of instructions that tell the CNC machine where to move, how fast to move and what path to follow.

As the machine is following the G-Code, it is continually removing material (except in the case of a 3D printer, where it is adding material) leaving behind a finished part. You do not need to know how to program G-Code to run many of today’s personal desktop CNC machines.

STEPCRAFT recommends using CAD/CAM software like Fusion 360, Vectric VCarve, Cut 2D or Cut 3D or Deskproto. These programs have an intuitive graphical interface that allows you to set all of the parameters for your job and then the software will output a fully-formatted G-Code file that you can load into your CNC’s machine control program to run the job. It is, however, not a bad idea to learn the basics of G-Code so if there was ever a problem with a job, you can quickly reference the code and see and understand what the machine is doing (or supposed to do) for the given G-Code commands.

What is a surfacing bit used for? A surfacing bit typically has a larger than normal cutting diameter (1 to 3 inches) and are used to flatten or level uneven surfaces on your project material. They are also used to take the thickness of a material down to a final required size.

For example, you might have a piece of rough cut lumber that measures 1 inch in thickness but you need it to be 3/4 inch thick. If you don’t have a surface planer in your shop then you can use a surfacing bit with a pocket tool path to plane the material down. Another common use for surfacing bits is to clean up and level a spoil board. After continuous use your spoil board’s surface will have a lot of cuts in it and you might want to clean it up so it is perfectly smooth again. A surfacing bit is perfect for this, especially with machines where the spoil board is physically attached to the machine – you might want to prolong the use of it for as long as you can before replacing. Leveling your spoil board is also important.

If you are looking to engrave.005″ into a piece of metal and your bed is off by a couple thousandths from one side to the other or front to back, then the thickness of your engraved lines will vary. By using a surfacing bit, you will ensure that your spoil board is perfectly level in relation to your gantry which will result in a uniform engraving. Note: Because of the larger diameter of a surfacing bit, it is important to note that you can not take as deep of passes or run as fast as you might with smaller end mills on most machines.

Consult your machine’s manufacturer for assistance with proper speeds and feeds for surfacing bits. We have a special post processor that you need to use for the laser.

You can download that file You need to place the file in the correct folder in your Vectric Program. Do do this, open your program (V Carve, Cut 2D, etc) In the FILE Menu, select OPEN APPLICATION DATA FOLDER Look for a “PostP” or “MyPostP” folder Copy the laser post processor file (downloaded above) Into both of these folders.

NOTE: if you copy the file into the MyPostP folder then when you open your Vectric Program, only the post processors in this folder will show. So I always recommend copying the post processors for my CNC into this folder so when you go to create a G Code file, you will not have to scan though a ton of files for other machines. If you do not want to use the MyPostP folder then simply copy the above Laser profile into the PostP folder and you will see it in the list of post processors. ALSO, you will need to restart the program for the post processor to be visible in the list. Can you scan your own design and create a tool path to cut the object out on a CNC (Image Tracing)? Vectric software, such as Cut 2D and VCarve have the ability for you to import a bitmap image and then use a function called “Image Trace” to create a vector around the image. You can then adjust and modify the vector to your liking.

From there you can select the vector(s) and create a tool path for the CNC machine to cut around. You can also vary the depth of the cut to meet your specific needs. The following video show you how to do this. What is a surfacing bit used for? A surfacing bit typically has a larger than normal cutting diameter (1 to 3 inches) and are used to flatten or level uneven surfaces on your project material.

They are also used to take the thickness of a material down to a final required size. For example, you might have a piece of rough cut lumber that measures 1 inch in thickness but you need it to be 3/4 inch thick.

If you don’t have a surface planer in your shop then you can use a surfacing bit with a pocket tool path to plane the material down. Another common use for surfacing bits is to clean up and level a spoil board. After continuous use your spoil board’s surface will have a lot of cuts in it and you might want to clean it up so it is perfectly smooth again.

A surfacing bit is perfect for this, especially with machines where the spoil board is physically attached to the machine – you might want to prolong the use of it for as long as you can before replacing. Leveling your spoil board is also important. If you are looking to engrave.005″ into a piece of metal and your bed is off by a couple thousandths from one side to the other or front to back, then the thickness of your engraved lines will vary. By using a surfacing bit, you will ensure that your spoil board is perfectly level in relation to your gantry which will result in a uniform engraving. Note: Because of the larger diameter of a surfacing bit, it is important to note that you can not take as deep of passes or run as fast as you might with smaller end mills on most machines. Consult your machine’s manufacturer for assistance with proper speeds and feeds for surfacing bits.

We have a special post processor that you need to use for the laser. You can download that file You need to place the file in the correct folder in your Vectric Program. Do do this, open your program (V Carve, Cut 2D, etc) In the FILE Menu, select OPEN APPLICATION DATA FOLDER Look for a “PostP” or “MyPostP” folder Copy the laser post processor file (downloaded above) Into both of these folders. NOTE: if you copy the file into the MyPostP folder then when you open your Vectric Program, only the post processors in this folder will show.

So I always recommend copying the post processors for my CNC into this folder so when you go to create a G Code file, you will not have to scan though a ton of files for other machines. If you do not want to use the MyPostP folder then simply copy the above Laser profile into the PostP folder and you will see it in the list of post processors. ALSO, you will need to restart the program for the post processor to be visible in the list. How do I setup and install the Tool Length Sensor on my STEPCRAFT CNC? The Tool Length sensor is a great addition to your Stepcraft 2 machine, saving time in zeroing the Z axis. There are a few steps to getting the sensor installed and configured properly.

Connecting to the mainboard: Remove the Rubber plug on the front end plate of the machine and run wires inward through the chassis. Run the wires along the channel and through the grommet the X and Z wires are run. Connect the sensor wires to the mainboard in the two open positions between the emergency stop switch wiring and the X/Z end switch (Refer to the manual section 9.6.) Leave enough slack to be able to move the sensor throughout the work area. Replacing the Macro file: UCCNC needs instructions to be able to properly use the sensor. Download the replacement M31.txt file (listed below) to the machine profile macro folder. For example for a Stepcraft 2 Model 300 the folder is C: UCCNC Profiles MacroStepcraft2Model300 If you have a 3D printing head and plan to use the sensor with that as well make sure to copy to the 3D profile folder as well.

You will need move the existing file first as it is set to read only and will not let you successfully copy the file otherwise. Download the latest macro file here:.Note: Opening the M31.txt will allow you to fine tune the height based on personal preference. Edit the newZ value (default 33) adding to the value to lower the Zero height. Since the setup will be separate for the 3D printer profile, you may want the print head slightly higher for 3d printing to avoid dragging. UCCNC Setup: Now we need to edit the profile for the machine so that it knows the tool sensor is connected. In the is C: UCCNC Profiles find the.PRO file for your machine.

First right click on it and choose properties. On the properties box there will be an option for read only, make sure that box is not checked. Click apply and close the window. Now when you change the setting in UCCNC it will be able to save and be stored for each time you open UCCNC. Go to the configuration tab and I/O setup from there. You will see the choice for “Probe pin:” change that to 10, and “Port:” to 1. At the bottom of the page click Apply settings, and then Save Settings.

Verify switch function and setup: Almost there, to verify the switch is operational and that it is properly configured open UCCNC click on the diagnostics tab. Press the sensor switch directly and you should see I10 and Probe light up in green. I10 is showing that the switch is working and Probe is showing that it is correctly configured. Using the sensor: After homing your machine setup your machine with some test material and place the sensor on top. Move the axis over the sensor and zero all. Now press the tool probe button from the main screen.

The Z axis will lower slowly until it contacts the sensor. It will then retract and calculate the Z zero taking into account the height of the sensor. Move the sensor out of the way and you can now click Go to Zero. The Z axis will lower to the calculated height for the work material. Can I use a 3D scanner to create 3D models to carve as well as 3D print? Yes, models created with a 3D Scanner are typically saved in common 3D formats like a.stl. These files can be imported into CAM programs like Vectric Cut 3D, Vectric V Carve and Deskproto where they can be assigned tool paths to carve the object out of a material.

This is commonly done with two tool paths: Roughing and Finishing, using a standard end mill and a ball nose end mill, respectively. These files created from a 3D scanner can also be used for a 3D printer. Here is a good article with a list of the best 3D scanners for 2017: STEPCRAFT also has a which can be used for 3D scanning. The following videos show how that works.

We have a special post processor that you need to use for the laser. You can download that file You need to place the file in the correct folder in your Vectric Program. Do do this, open your program (V Carve, Cut 2D, etc) In the FILE Menu, select OPEN APPLICATION DATA FOLDER Look for a “PostP” or “MyPostP” folder Copy the laser post processor file (downloaded above) Into both of these folders. NOTE: if you copy the file into the MyPostP folder then when you open your Vectric Program, only the post processors in this folder will show. So I always recommend copying the post processors for my CNC into this folder so when you go to create a G Code file, you will not have to scan though a ton of files for other machines. If you do not want to use the MyPostP folder then simply copy the above Laser profile into the PostP folder and you will see it in the list of post processors.

ALSO, you will need to restart the program for the post processor to be visible in the list. What is a surfacing bit used for? A surfacing bit typically has a larger than normal cutting diameter (1 to 3 inches) and are used to flatten or level uneven surfaces on your project material. They are also used to take the thickness of a material down to a final required size. For example, you might have a piece of rough cut lumber that measures 1 inch in thickness but you need it to be 3/4 inch thick.

If you don’t have a surface planer in your shop then you can use a surfacing bit with a pocket tool path to plane the material down. Another common use for surfacing bits is to clean up and level a spoil board. After continuous use your spoil board’s surface will have a lot of cuts in it and you might want to clean it up so it is perfectly smooth again. A surfacing bit is perfect for this, especially with machines where the spoil board is physically attached to the machine – you might want to prolong the use of it for as long as you can before replacing. Leveling your spoil board is also important.

If you are looking to engrave.005″ into a piece of metal and your bed is off by a couple thousandths from one side to the other or front to back, then the thickness of your engraved lines will vary. By using a surfacing bit, you will ensure that your spoil board is perfectly level in relation to your gantry which will result in a uniform engraving. Note: Because of the larger diameter of a surfacing bit, it is important to note that you can not take as deep of passes or run as fast as you might with smaller end mills on most machines. Consult your machine’s manufacturer for assistance with proper speeds and feeds for surfacing bits. What is a surfacing bit used for? A surfacing bit typically has a larger than normal cutting diameter (1 to 3 inches) and are used to flatten or level uneven surfaces on your project material. They are also used to take the thickness of a material down to a final required size.

For example, you might have a piece of rough cut lumber that measures 1 inch in thickness but you need it to be 3/4 inch thick. If you don’t have a surface planer in your shop then you can use a surfacing bit with a pocket tool path to plane the material down. Another common use for surfacing bits is to clean up and level a spoil board. After continuous use your spoil board’s surface will have a lot of cuts in it and you might want to clean it up so it is perfectly smooth again. A surfacing bit is perfect for this, especially with machines where the spoil board is physically attached to the machine – you might want to prolong the use of it for as long as you can before replacing.

Leveling your spoil board is also important. If you are looking to engrave.005″ into a piece of metal and your bed is off by a couple thousandths from one side to the other or front to back, then the thickness of your engraved lines will vary. By using a surfacing bit, you will ensure that your spoil board is perfectly level in relation to your gantry which will result in a uniform engraving.

Note: Because of the larger diameter of a surfacing bit, it is important to note that you can not take as deep of passes or run as fast as you might with smaller end mills on most machines. Consult your machine’s manufacturer for assistance with proper speeds and feeds for surfacing bits. What is a surfacing bit used for? A surfacing bit typically has a larger than normal cutting diameter (1 to 3 inches) and are used to flatten or level uneven surfaces on your project material. They are also used to take the thickness of a material down to a final required size.

For example, you might have a piece of rough cut lumber that measures 1 inch in thickness but you need it to be 3/4 inch thick. If you don’t have a surface planer in your shop then you can use a surfacing bit with a pocket tool path to plane the material down. Another common use for surfacing bits is to clean up and level a spoil board. After continuous use your spoil board’s surface will have a lot of cuts in it and you might want to clean it up so it is perfectly smooth again. A surfacing bit is perfect for this, especially with machines where the spoil board is physically attached to the machine – you might want to prolong the use of it for as long as you can before replacing. Leveling your spoil board is also important.

If you are looking to engrave.005″ into a piece of metal and your bed is off by a couple thousandths from one side to the other or front to back, then the thickness of your engraved lines will vary. By using a surfacing bit, you will ensure that your spoil board is perfectly level in relation to your gantry which will result in a uniform engraving. Note: Because of the larger diameter of a surfacing bit, it is important to note that you can not take as deep of passes or run as fast as you might with smaller end mills on most machines.

Consult your machine’s manufacturer for assistance with proper speeds and feeds for surfacing bits. What is a surfacing bit used for? A surfacing bit typically has a larger than normal cutting diameter (1 to 3 inches) and are used to flatten or level uneven surfaces on your project material. They are also used to take the thickness of a material down to a final required size. For example, you might have a piece of rough cut lumber that measures 1 inch in thickness but you need it to be 3/4 inch thick.

If you don’t have a surface planer in your shop then you can use a surfacing bit with a pocket tool path to plane the material down. Another common use for surfacing bits is to clean up and level a spoil board. After continuous use your spoil board’s surface will have a lot of cuts in it and you might want to clean it up so it is perfectly smooth again. A surfacing bit is perfect for this, especially with machines where the spoil board is physically attached to the machine – you might want to prolong the use of it for as long as you can before replacing. Leveling your spoil board is also important. If you are looking to engrave.005″ into a piece of metal and your bed is off by a couple thousandths from one side to the other or front to back, then the thickness of your engraved lines will vary.

By using a surfacing bit, you will ensure that your spoil board is perfectly level in relation to your gantry which will result in a uniform engraving. Note: Because of the larger diameter of a surfacing bit, it is important to note that you can not take as deep of passes or run as fast as you might with smaller end mills on most machines. Consult your machine’s manufacturer for assistance with proper speeds and feeds for surfacing bits.